Instructions for a zipper pocket and an adjustable strap have been added to the pattern”
Like all designers, I have my favourites, and the Charlie’s Aunt Gunton Messenger Bag is right up there for me. There is something about the simplicity of this elegant but practical style – evocative of the 1940s era – that really appeals. I am a big fan of asymmetry, and this bag with its asymmetrical front pocket, flap and button placement are typical of my signature style.
The Gunton Messenger Bag is also a serviceable style with a useful size—not too big or small. And it can be made with a self-fabric or purchased strap. But even with favourites, there is always room for improvement and I’ve recently tweaked the pattern ahead of relaunching it, by adding an interior zipper pocket and an option for an adjustable webbing strap. The original pattern simply replicated the exterior pocket as an interior patch pocket, but the addition of a zippered pocket gives an extra dimension of security.
Fabric choices
The Gunton Messenger Bag can be made in pretty much any fabric with the correct interfacing and stabiliser. In terms of the patch pocket on the front, you can use cork, leather or faux-leather, or fabric of a contrasting colour to make it ‘pop’. For this example, I chose to use a cotton quilting fabric with a ‘mock croc’ type pattern which matches perfectly with the Tim Holtz Eclectic Elements canvas substrate from Free Spirit Fabrics that I’ve used for the main fabric.
I am a huge fan of Tim Holtz as his fabric designs always have a ‘vintage’ vibe. This is an ideal alternative to the usual wool tweeds I favour for my Charlie’s Aunt bags. I’ve had this fabric for a long time now and have been waiting for the right project to use it on. However, I figured it would work well with the simple design of Gunton.
As with all Charlie’s Aunt patterns, there is scope to use up smaller pieces of fabric and any vintage treasures you may have. I found some vintage zips and thread in my mum’s sewing basket that matched perfectly with the colours in this glorious fabric.
Cutting tips for asymmetrical bags
- When cutting out, remember that the flap and pocket are asymmetrical so you need to cut the flap front and back, and the pocket front and back (lining) in pairs as mirror images of each other.
- If using fusible interfacing, it is easiest to cut this glue side up as this is the side that you will fusing to the fabric.
- Cut 1cm from the upper edge of the lining (so it is 1cm shorter than the exterior front/back) before stitching. This will prevent the lining from bunching up in the bottom of the bag.
Pocket variations
You could also use the interior pocket method to create a zippered external pocket on the bag back, as I have done with this example. This gives an extra secure place against the body to keep any valuables well hidden. In this example, I have made an interior patch pocket which I’ve stitched on to the back lining and a zippered pocket set into the front lining. I then have the external patch pocket on the front exterior, plus a zippered pocket on the back exterior, so four pockets in total. A few tips for an external zippered pocket are included below.
- Transfer the zipper pocket markers to the interfacing side of the pocket and bag back, and make the pocket in the same way as the interior zippered pocket.
- For an external zip pocket, use the same fabric as you have for the exterior if possible (or a very good matching lining fabric) to avoid it showing around the zipper.
- If you are adding the foam stabilizer, you would have to use a sew-in and add this to the wrong side of the back AFTER attaching the zipper pocket.
Construction tips
- As the snap is on the pocket front, it is advisable to use a double layer of interfacing on the pocket front to give it extra strength and stability.
- It is crucial to place the front pocket correctly so that the magnetic part of the snap on the pocket engages with the non-magnetic part on the flap when it is folded over and fastened. Note that the snap pocket needs to be placed 2” (5cm) down from the raw edge. The pocket itself is not central but the SNAP must be completely central so measure either side to ensure that it is.
- For extra accuracy, I made the flap and pinned it to the bag back before stitching the front and back together. This is so I could check that the snap/pocket were in the correct place.
Strap variations
I include an option for a ‘self-fabric’ non-adjustable strap in most of my patterns. But with the messenger styles, which are worn cross-body, it is handy to have an adjustable strap to cater for different body shapes. The updated version of the Gunton Messenger Bag pattern gives quantities and instructions for an adjustable strap made of webbing, along with the old options for self-fabric. The added bonus of an adjustable strap is that you can add the main part after you’ve constructed the bag so it doesn’t get in the way when you are sewing in the lining.
Additional information
The Gunton Messenger Bag’s approximate finished dimensions are: Width 13” (33cm), height 11” (28cm), (darted base width 2.5”/6cm approximately), strap length approx. 41” (105cm). For more information about this bag or any other Charlie’s Aunt patterns, contact emma@charliesaunt.com or message via Facebook.
Happy sewing!
Emma x
